June 30--Kent/Seattle, WA
I've been remiss, and I'm sure you're all on the edge of your seat waiting for an update, so:
The week at Lynn and colin's was very nice. We camped out in their driveway, which was nice and quiet. The cats enjoyed the time not moving, and I enjoyed being with family.
Wednesday I did a drive up to Neah Bay, which is the most northwesterly part of the continental US. The drive there was wonderful, on a two-lane twisty road with views of mountains and ocean (and deer, but that's a constant). The very end involved a walk down a hill to a rocky point that was gorgeous. I stopped at the Makah museum, to see the artifacts from a village that was buried by a landslide 500 years ago. And I bought a hunk of authentic smoked salmon, which was good (if a bit strong).
Thursday I did very little; went to Wal Mart to get cat stuff, dropped some food and litter off at the local Humane Society (they needed kitten food), and hung out with the cats.
Friday I went to Victoria on the ferry. I took the fast ferry, which got us there in an hour. Victoria is a great little city, with amazing water views (the Olympics over the Strait was just lovely) and lots of cute houses. I walked around the downtown up to Chinatown, where I had lunch (kind of a touristy restaurant, but good and plentiful and cheap food), then back to the harbor area, where I decided I was tired of walking. I took a Gray Line tour on a double-decker open bus, so I could sit in the sun (yes, sun, and lots of it--Victoria tends to be sunny when everywhere else isn't) and see more of the place. At one stop, at a marina, there were some pretty tame harbor seals that could be fed. The tour guide (who I'm not sure I believe) said that they were refugees from an oceanarium that closed in the early 90's after a killer whale killed a trainer--the whales were sold, but the seals were released, and decided begging for fish was better than being wild. There were four of them here, and two were pregnant, so I suspect there will soon be more!
Then I took the ferry tour, in these tiny little boats (much smaller than my RV), up the harbor gorge. We saw another seal, as well as houses ranging from shacks to mansions (the gorge used to be the garbage dump, and wasn't cleaned up completely until about 10 years ago). Also, lots of scullers/rowers, who can really get moving when they get down to it. The ferry ride back to Port Angeles was fun, because the wind had picked up and the waves were bigger and hitting us broadside. This boat wasn't that big, and we were pitching and tossing and I was up on the bow and got hit good by a wave (right in the ear!) and enjoyed most of it.
The weekend was a lot of relaxing, plus a trip with Lynn to tide pools up on the Strait. We had to walk out pretty far on sharp rocks and mussels (and I had worn the wrong shoes for the occasions, so between that and my lack of depth perception to see where to put my feet, I was pretty slow). But I got to see more anemones, plus purple sea urchins (VERY purple) and a red sea star. And lots of people. Then we went to the Lake Crescent Lodge and had a great lunch, then to the Elwha dams (which are going to be removed next year), and then back.
I left Monday, after doing another load of laundry (thanks, Lynn!). Nell decided to vomit again--there's something about driving after a long layover that causes her to get carsick. Another towel gone; I think I'll be putting paper towels in now. The drive was uneventful (except for people stuck behind me on the two-lane road--I miss Canada's frequent passing lanes) until I decided to look for lunch. I followed some signs in Gig Harbor that said food, but all I did was go down a long hill through a congested area, then up another hill and back to the Interstate: no food. So I crossed the Tacoma Narrows bridge (no galloping Gertie, yay!) and got off at another stop just past Tacoma. Where I found the Burger King, but there was absolutely no place for me to park in the small congested parking lot. So I pulled back out into traffic (thanks to the drivers that let me out, and I'm sorry to the RV for hopping that curb) and found a McD's with a slightly larger parking lot, and then when I left I got into the wrong lane . . . there's a reason I'm taking the bus now that I'm here.
The KOA was easy to find, and I have a spot right in front. It's a bit noisy, like most KOA's; it's on a major road with lots of traffic. But I can sleep through it, and the people all around give the cats something to look at.
And there's a bus stop right across the street, that during rush hours will take me directly to downtown Seattle! I did that yesterday, getting to the Pike Place Market early because I thought it would be interesting. Um, no, nothing happened. I ate a ham/cheese/spinach piroshki (which was good but crumbled all over everything) and walked down to the waterfront. I walked up and down, looking at the boats and the piers and everything. Then I decided since I had time I did the Underground tour. Seattle was originally built on a mud-flat that had been built up by sawdust, and thus was pretty wet and tended to subside. So after a big fire in 1889, they decided to raise the roadbed up about 15 feet, and the first floors of buildings that survived were buried. In one room there was the remains of wall decorations, as well as a toilet that was elevated to avoid backwash when the tide came in. Another place, you could see that the floor had subsided about 2 feet since it was laid. Very cool.
I walked back to the waterfront and got clam strips and fries at Ivar's wharf. I ate most of the crab strips and some of the fries, and fed the rest to the hovering seagulls, which didn't quite snatch it from my mouth, but came close. Then I walked farther down the waterfront, then up to a park on the bluff. The weather was mostly cooperating, with some sun. I walked through the market, then had some clam chowder, and then it was time to head back, where I fed the cats and was lazy.
I'm not going to head out quite as early this morning, and I'm going to be meeting with Tom for lunch! And the sun is out; I'm hoping to see Rainier today.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
The Olympics, but not the sports . . .
June 19--Kalaloch, WA
I was idly checking the Internet website for Kalaloch, and found that reservations actually began last weekend, and not next. So I checked the availability of campsites, and found exactly one campsite that my RV would fit which was available the days I wanted. Oh dear.
I didn't sleep that well, fed the cats at 6:30, and left by 7:15. This is earlier than I normally would, but the cats did not get sick, so it worked.
It was cloudy and a bit drizzly, but the scenery was pretty. I did have to pull over twice for logging trucks that were in a big damn hurry, but otherwise traffic was light.
I pulled into Kalaloch at 9am, and immediately drove to the campsite, hoping 1. it was still open, and 2. my rig would fit. Both were true! It's not the best site; it's right across from the bathrooms, Highway 101 is a stone's throw away, and it backs up to the dumpsters (literally, there's a dumpster eight feet from my rig). It's also tilted enough that I can't quite level it, and the rig is right next to the road so people need to drive carefully. But we're very happy to be here!
I walked over to the registration station, and found that someone had canceled the spot yesterday, which is why it was open--thanks, person!
After I got set up (and ate breakfast/lunch--I wasn't hungry before), I walked around the campground, which I did several times. I'm along the branch of the campground that is next to the road, but I haven't found it to be any louder than other places I've been (most KOA's are at least as noisy). Lots of tent camping, which since it rained all last night (it's the next morning), was probably not fun. Like I said, I'm a wuss, and like vehicle camping. I've tent camped in the rain enough, thanks. I also found some big rigs wedged into small spaces, and one of these rigs had the dashboard blocked off, with baby rabbits in it! The husband of the pair told me his wife is fostering the bunnies, while she picked them up and showed them to me. Not even baby bunnies can cancel a oceanfront camping trip! By the way, I can see the ocean from my spot as well, even if it's rather far away. I also saw at least two other cats on dashes, as well as a version of my rig, but without a couch and with the bed downstairs. I don't like it; I like mine much better!
I climbed down to the beach and walked along it for a while. It was low tide, and the water was very far out, Not a lot of shells, other than crab carapaces, but some very pretty rocks. Then it was back to the RV for reading and napping (all three of us decided to sleep--me and Puck on the couch and Nell in her favorite spot on the dash).
After the nap, I decided to check out the lodge. It's a short walk along the road from the far end of the campground to the lodge, where there's some overpriced things at the Mercantile (someone left a hot-dog-cooker at my spot, so I priced hot dogs--they want $5 for a pack of hot dogs!) plus a couple of reasonably priced things (I bought some jalapeno cheese crackers and a HUGE chocolate muffin, that I'm saving for when I really need chocolate), plus a restaurant that is way overpriced for dinner, but I plan to eat there for lunch today (before tide pooling, assuming the tide is low enough) and maybe breakfast tomorrow. The cabins there are very nice, with great views, but for what I'm paying for three days here I could stay there for maybe half a day. Another reason I like my RV!
After having tuna and green beans for dinner (and feeding the cats), I wandered over to the amphitheater to see if there was going to be a program. Nope. Bummer. So I wandered around the campground some more (I need the exercise), then I sat down at a (presumably temporarily) empty site to watch the sunset. With the clouds and the water and Destruction Island with its lighthouse in the distance, very pretty. And it meant that I was out of the campfire smoke. There wasn't much of a wind, and the smoke was just hanging over the campground. Blech. A wind would be nice. My jacket this morning reeked of smoke, even though I hadn't had a fire. Heck, who needs one! I did gather some driftwood, in case I feel like a fire, but even though it's under the picnic table, it's a bit damp.
I didn't sleep well, really. This damp cold is really cold, even though it's 58 inside (which is what I set the heat at other places) and only 53 outside. So I woke up after an hour or so to grab another blanket, and then had to rearrange myself around the cats (who were also cold) to make sure I had some blanket. Then the cats decided to play, then Puck horked up a hairball (luckily on a brochure I had left on the floor--I just chucked the whole thing out the door and dealt with it this morning), and then it started to get light. I'll have to try to get to sleep earlier tonight, maybe. And get the bed set up before I get in it.
So I woke up this morning, fed the cats, ate a tomato sandwich with a Pepsi (breakfast of champions!) and am now watching Hell's Kitchen while writing this. Hopefully the inverter I bought will allow the laptop to recharge, so I can watch more shows I have ready. Yep, that's me, in a beautiful wilderness area, watching bad TV. But it's raining, and it's cold! Wuss.
June 20--Kalaloch, WA
Lots more walking (on the beach and through the campground), as well as reading and napping. The weather has been the same pattern: rainy morning, partly sunny early afternoon, cloudy evening, rain at night. I've tried to be outside for the sunny parts as much as possible.
Walking the beach when the sun is out is very cool: the sand is dark and absorbs the sun's rays enough that it begins to steam, so mist is rising off the sand in the sun. Very pretty, and a bit eerie.
I walked to the lodge yesterday and did some tidepooling. There are rocks off the beach there, and at low tide I got to see a lot of barnacles, some limpets and whelks, and some big green anemones. No starfish, unfortunately, but still pretty cool. I then rinsed my feet off (I was wearing my new water shoes, which are partly neoprene which comes in handy in cold water), then had lunch at the lodge (in bare feet, but don't tell them!). A big hamburger with fries and a Pepsi, which was very good. Then I walked back and kept the cats company for a while.
The campground was pretty much full yesterday. The only open sites were those that have been reserved, but nobody showed--maybe they forgot, maybe it was too cold and they didn't think to cancel. I felt a bit bad for people who were coming by and could have stayed, but the sites were reserved. The ingenuity to keep the rain off the tents is amazing--lots of tarps tied here and there, as covers and roofs and such. My favorite so far is the person who had a big screened room with a nice waterproof roof who could fit both the picnic table and the tent in the enclosure. Still, I like my RV.
The campground was a bit noisier last night. A bunch of kids on bikes were riding around, plus some yahoos a few sites away decided they needed to play their music loud enough for me to hear it with my windows closed; I can't imagine how loud it was for those in the tents. I think someone finally told them to turn it down, because they did after a couple of hours. Yay!
I slept much better last night; I was even too warm near the end. I wonder sometimes how much is my metabolism, or how much I've been active. It was 57 this morning, but still felt colder.
I walked the nature trail this morning, which was beautiful. Overgrown trees, ferns, the path running through, a stream or two, really lovely. Lots of birds, many I've never heard before. There are some that sound like canaries, and one that sounds like some sort of electrical feedback. I didn't see any animals on the trail, but I did clap my hands occasionally to scare anything off (I have my period and figured since I smell like blood it was a good idea).
For lunch I went to the lodge again and had a sandwich that was a thing of beauty: bacon, lettuce, avocado, sprouts, and tomato, on thick wheat toast. Just amazingly good. Then more beach walking, sitting in the sun, reading, and playing with the cats (not all at the same time!).
We're headed out to Port Angeles tomorrow; it's kind of a shame to leave this quiet. But it'll be great to see Lynn and Colin, and to visit more of the park.
June 22--Port Angeles
We got up early as usual yesterday, and it was raining (as usual). I fed the cats and waited the hour before packing up, checking the tires (all OK!) and heading out.
I wanted to see some of the park on this side, so I turned in at the Hoh rainforest, much to the pleasure of some people behind me (the traffic was light, but I did have a couple of people pass me in a big damn hurry). I drove the speed limit up the Hoh valley, which pissed off more people, but did keep me from hitting a deer that was confused and decided to escape my vehicle by running right in front of it. No panic stop, luckily. The weather had gotten better, and by the time I got to the visitor's center the sun was actually peeking out.
I parked in the regular parking area (it was deserted enough, and the spots long enough, that I could do this) and went to the visitor's center. Not much to see, but I did then walk the Hall of Mosses. Some very pretty areas, with plants covering about every surface (including air plants on other plants!). My favorite sight, however, was probably the stream running through the area. The water was completely clear, and there were water plants growing under the surface that were swaying with the current. You could literally see one patch wave with different ripples of currents; it was hypnotic.
On the way down there was a lot more traffic, both going up and coming down. I did get a glimpse of a Roosevelt elk female nursing its calf, but it was only a glimpse because I was driving at the time and couldn't pull over. Then back to 101 and Forks.
Forks is the town chosen somewhat at random by Stephenie Meyer to set the "Twilight" books in. And the town has jumped into this with both feet. It used to be a dying lumber town (there's still a Lumber Museum here), but now everythign is Twilight. Tours, restaurants, shops, everything. Even a special pull-over for vehicles so people can get their pictures taken with the "Welcome to Forks" sign. No, I didn't stop--well, I did stop long enough to get a Subway sandwich, but that's it.
I kept driving towards Port Angeles. I saw that I was going to get in REALLY early, and when I passed the sign for the Sol Duc hot springs I decided to stop. It was up another long road into the interior (there are no roads that go through the Olympics, but several spur roads that go in a bit). I found that I could again park in the regular parking lot, and headed in. In all these stops, by the way (except for lunch), I let the cats out. They enjoy getting out of the carriers, and having something to watch, and I enjoy not having to worry about them soiling the carriers or getting thirsty. And luckily, I can pick up Puck to put him in his carrier, and Nell usually gets in herself.
There are four pools at the hot springs: a really hot (106 degrees) pool, a hot pool (102 degrees), a wading pool for kids (99 degrees), and a larger swimming pool that was 74 degrees, which may be a real pool (i.e. chlorinated; the smaller pools aren't treated because the water circulates so quickly). The water itself was odd; it made my skin feel slimy. It's possible that it was just really soft, but it was just weird. It also smelled of sulfur, but not too badly. I sat in the medium-hot pool for an hour or so, even reading my book for a while. The sun came out enough that it was really nice. And on the drive down I saw a doe with two fawns, which were very small and may have only been a day or so old--very cute!
I then continued around Lake Crescent (very deep, and a very interesting color, presumably from the glacier melt), then outside of Port Angeles I saw the view. It was clear enough (and we were high enough) that the Strait of Juan de Fuca was quite visible, with Vancouver Islands in the distance. It was so stunning, I nearly drove off the road. Just amazing looking, it didn't seem real.
Once I got to Port Angeles, I realized that I didn't have directions or a map. So after stopping at an Albertsons for some bread (which Puck promptly ate into--I suspect now it was him and not Nell behind the infamous bread eating episode!) I followed the main drag through downtown (which was pretty, if congested, particularl with an RV) till I saw signs for the park. I knew roughly where the administration building was in relation to the visitor's center, and there was also a sign. So I pulled in, parked across several spaces, and went in. I found Lynn without much trouble, and she and a coworker came and saw the kitties. Then we drove to her and Colin's house, which is very very nice. I did manage to park in the driveway, although it's rather unlevel. Oh well, I don't have to use my refrigerator anyway!
We went for a drive around town, then picked up pizza. It is a pretty town, and lots of places have a view of the Straits or the mountains or both.
I slept well in the RV, then did laundry the next morning. It was a sunny, clear day, and halfway through the laundry I decided to go up to Hurricane Ridge. I left the laundry in the washer (temporarily!) and got in Lynn's car (which drives very nicely!) and headed uphill.
Hurricane Ridge, about 18 miles above Port Angeles, is amazing. You drive up and up and up, with some impressive cliff action on one side and rock walls on the other, and then at the top you round a corner and there is about 180 degrees of snow-capped mountains, all seemingly about the same height, across the horizon. It's just amazing and stunning, and again it was good that I could stop and gawk. I went into the Visitor's center (passing a deer in the parking lot that was transfixing everyone else--um, it's a deer) and stared at the mountains until I got cold (it was 45 degrees up there, and even though it was sunny I hadn't really dressed for that weather). Then back down the mountain, where I also got to see the fog bank that was covering the strait and Puget Sound, but letting views of higher portions of neighboring mountains show through. Very pretty.
When I got down the hill I decided to wander around the college. I couldn't find any visitor's parking (there's some sort of construction going on taking up most of the parking), so I parked along the road and walked. And quite frankly, I couldn't find much of anything. I mean, I found the library and the student union and such, but there apparently are no departments and everyone is just kind of mixed together. Kind of confusing, but again the campus has a great view as well. Then to McDonalds for lunch (bad idea to hit fast food in Port Angeles at lunch time, apparently--I could barely get into the parking lot because of the line for the drive-through and I couldn't go in the out and bah). Then back home, whereupon I dried my laundry, put it away, hung with the cats for a while, and took a nap.
When Lynn got home, we went for another drive and scoped out houses, and then back home for steak. I'm now on their internet, and catching up on everything. I plan on doing a coast drive, as well as taking the ferry to Victoria, although I'm not sure when. I may well update this, but I intend to head to Seattle on Monday, and I'll certainly update then, if their Internet works!
I was idly checking the Internet website for Kalaloch, and found that reservations actually began last weekend, and not next. So I checked the availability of campsites, and found exactly one campsite that my RV would fit which was available the days I wanted. Oh dear.
I didn't sleep that well, fed the cats at 6:30, and left by 7:15. This is earlier than I normally would, but the cats did not get sick, so it worked.
It was cloudy and a bit drizzly, but the scenery was pretty. I did have to pull over twice for logging trucks that were in a big damn hurry, but otherwise traffic was light.
I pulled into Kalaloch at 9am, and immediately drove to the campsite, hoping 1. it was still open, and 2. my rig would fit. Both were true! It's not the best site; it's right across from the bathrooms, Highway 101 is a stone's throw away, and it backs up to the dumpsters (literally, there's a dumpster eight feet from my rig). It's also tilted enough that I can't quite level it, and the rig is right next to the road so people need to drive carefully. But we're very happy to be here!
I walked over to the registration station, and found that someone had canceled the spot yesterday, which is why it was open--thanks, person!
After I got set up (and ate breakfast/lunch--I wasn't hungry before), I walked around the campground, which I did several times. I'm along the branch of the campground that is next to the road, but I haven't found it to be any louder than other places I've been (most KOA's are at least as noisy). Lots of tent camping, which since it rained all last night (it's the next morning), was probably not fun. Like I said, I'm a wuss, and like vehicle camping. I've tent camped in the rain enough, thanks. I also found some big rigs wedged into small spaces, and one of these rigs had the dashboard blocked off, with baby rabbits in it! The husband of the pair told me his wife is fostering the bunnies, while she picked them up and showed them to me. Not even baby bunnies can cancel a oceanfront camping trip! By the way, I can see the ocean from my spot as well, even if it's rather far away. I also saw at least two other cats on dashes, as well as a version of my rig, but without a couch and with the bed downstairs. I don't like it; I like mine much better!
I climbed down to the beach and walked along it for a while. It was low tide, and the water was very far out, Not a lot of shells, other than crab carapaces, but some very pretty rocks. Then it was back to the RV for reading and napping (all three of us decided to sleep--me and Puck on the couch and Nell in her favorite spot on the dash).
After the nap, I decided to check out the lodge. It's a short walk along the road from the far end of the campground to the lodge, where there's some overpriced things at the Mercantile (someone left a hot-dog-cooker at my spot, so I priced hot dogs--they want $5 for a pack of hot dogs!) plus a couple of reasonably priced things (I bought some jalapeno cheese crackers and a HUGE chocolate muffin, that I'm saving for when I really need chocolate), plus a restaurant that is way overpriced for dinner, but I plan to eat there for lunch today (before tide pooling, assuming the tide is low enough) and maybe breakfast tomorrow. The cabins there are very nice, with great views, but for what I'm paying for three days here I could stay there for maybe half a day. Another reason I like my RV!
After having tuna and green beans for dinner (and feeding the cats), I wandered over to the amphitheater to see if there was going to be a program. Nope. Bummer. So I wandered around the campground some more (I need the exercise), then I sat down at a (presumably temporarily) empty site to watch the sunset. With the clouds and the water and Destruction Island with its lighthouse in the distance, very pretty. And it meant that I was out of the campfire smoke. There wasn't much of a wind, and the smoke was just hanging over the campground. Blech. A wind would be nice. My jacket this morning reeked of smoke, even though I hadn't had a fire. Heck, who needs one! I did gather some driftwood, in case I feel like a fire, but even though it's under the picnic table, it's a bit damp.
I didn't sleep well, really. This damp cold is really cold, even though it's 58 inside (which is what I set the heat at other places) and only 53 outside. So I woke up after an hour or so to grab another blanket, and then had to rearrange myself around the cats (who were also cold) to make sure I had some blanket. Then the cats decided to play, then Puck horked up a hairball (luckily on a brochure I had left on the floor--I just chucked the whole thing out the door and dealt with it this morning), and then it started to get light. I'll have to try to get to sleep earlier tonight, maybe. And get the bed set up before I get in it.
So I woke up this morning, fed the cats, ate a tomato sandwich with a Pepsi (breakfast of champions!) and am now watching Hell's Kitchen while writing this. Hopefully the inverter I bought will allow the laptop to recharge, so I can watch more shows I have ready. Yep, that's me, in a beautiful wilderness area, watching bad TV. But it's raining, and it's cold! Wuss.
June 20--Kalaloch, WA
Lots more walking (on the beach and through the campground), as well as reading and napping. The weather has been the same pattern: rainy morning, partly sunny early afternoon, cloudy evening, rain at night. I've tried to be outside for the sunny parts as much as possible.
Walking the beach when the sun is out is very cool: the sand is dark and absorbs the sun's rays enough that it begins to steam, so mist is rising off the sand in the sun. Very pretty, and a bit eerie.
I walked to the lodge yesterday and did some tidepooling. There are rocks off the beach there, and at low tide I got to see a lot of barnacles, some limpets and whelks, and some big green anemones. No starfish, unfortunately, but still pretty cool. I then rinsed my feet off (I was wearing my new water shoes, which are partly neoprene which comes in handy in cold water), then had lunch at the lodge (in bare feet, but don't tell them!). A big hamburger with fries and a Pepsi, which was very good. Then I walked back and kept the cats company for a while.
The campground was pretty much full yesterday. The only open sites were those that have been reserved, but nobody showed--maybe they forgot, maybe it was too cold and they didn't think to cancel. I felt a bit bad for people who were coming by and could have stayed, but the sites were reserved. The ingenuity to keep the rain off the tents is amazing--lots of tarps tied here and there, as covers and roofs and such. My favorite so far is the person who had a big screened room with a nice waterproof roof who could fit both the picnic table and the tent in the enclosure. Still, I like my RV.
The campground was a bit noisier last night. A bunch of kids on bikes were riding around, plus some yahoos a few sites away decided they needed to play their music loud enough for me to hear it with my windows closed; I can't imagine how loud it was for those in the tents. I think someone finally told them to turn it down, because they did after a couple of hours. Yay!
I slept much better last night; I was even too warm near the end. I wonder sometimes how much is my metabolism, or how much I've been active. It was 57 this morning, but still felt colder.
I walked the nature trail this morning, which was beautiful. Overgrown trees, ferns, the path running through, a stream or two, really lovely. Lots of birds, many I've never heard before. There are some that sound like canaries, and one that sounds like some sort of electrical feedback. I didn't see any animals on the trail, but I did clap my hands occasionally to scare anything off (I have my period and figured since I smell like blood it was a good idea).
For lunch I went to the lodge again and had a sandwich that was a thing of beauty: bacon, lettuce, avocado, sprouts, and tomato, on thick wheat toast. Just amazingly good. Then more beach walking, sitting in the sun, reading, and playing with the cats (not all at the same time!).
We're headed out to Port Angeles tomorrow; it's kind of a shame to leave this quiet. But it'll be great to see Lynn and Colin, and to visit more of the park.
June 22--Port Angeles
We got up early as usual yesterday, and it was raining (as usual). I fed the cats and waited the hour before packing up, checking the tires (all OK!) and heading out.
I wanted to see some of the park on this side, so I turned in at the Hoh rainforest, much to the pleasure of some people behind me (the traffic was light, but I did have a couple of people pass me in a big damn hurry). I drove the speed limit up the Hoh valley, which pissed off more people, but did keep me from hitting a deer that was confused and decided to escape my vehicle by running right in front of it. No panic stop, luckily. The weather had gotten better, and by the time I got to the visitor's center the sun was actually peeking out.
I parked in the regular parking area (it was deserted enough, and the spots long enough, that I could do this) and went to the visitor's center. Not much to see, but I did then walk the Hall of Mosses. Some very pretty areas, with plants covering about every surface (including air plants on other plants!). My favorite sight, however, was probably the stream running through the area. The water was completely clear, and there were water plants growing under the surface that were swaying with the current. You could literally see one patch wave with different ripples of currents; it was hypnotic.
On the way down there was a lot more traffic, both going up and coming down. I did get a glimpse of a Roosevelt elk female nursing its calf, but it was only a glimpse because I was driving at the time and couldn't pull over. Then back to 101 and Forks.
Forks is the town chosen somewhat at random by Stephenie Meyer to set the "Twilight" books in. And the town has jumped into this with both feet. It used to be a dying lumber town (there's still a Lumber Museum here), but now everythign is Twilight. Tours, restaurants, shops, everything. Even a special pull-over for vehicles so people can get their pictures taken with the "Welcome to Forks" sign. No, I didn't stop--well, I did stop long enough to get a Subway sandwich, but that's it.
I kept driving towards Port Angeles. I saw that I was going to get in REALLY early, and when I passed the sign for the Sol Duc hot springs I decided to stop. It was up another long road into the interior (there are no roads that go through the Olympics, but several spur roads that go in a bit). I found that I could again park in the regular parking lot, and headed in. In all these stops, by the way (except for lunch), I let the cats out. They enjoy getting out of the carriers, and having something to watch, and I enjoy not having to worry about them soiling the carriers or getting thirsty. And luckily, I can pick up Puck to put him in his carrier, and Nell usually gets in herself.
There are four pools at the hot springs: a really hot (106 degrees) pool, a hot pool (102 degrees), a wading pool for kids (99 degrees), and a larger swimming pool that was 74 degrees, which may be a real pool (i.e. chlorinated; the smaller pools aren't treated because the water circulates so quickly). The water itself was odd; it made my skin feel slimy. It's possible that it was just really soft, but it was just weird. It also smelled of sulfur, but not too badly. I sat in the medium-hot pool for an hour or so, even reading my book for a while. The sun came out enough that it was really nice. And on the drive down I saw a doe with two fawns, which were very small and may have only been a day or so old--very cute!
I then continued around Lake Crescent (very deep, and a very interesting color, presumably from the glacier melt), then outside of Port Angeles I saw the view. It was clear enough (and we were high enough) that the Strait of Juan de Fuca was quite visible, with Vancouver Islands in the distance. It was so stunning, I nearly drove off the road. Just amazing looking, it didn't seem real.
Once I got to Port Angeles, I realized that I didn't have directions or a map. So after stopping at an Albertsons for some bread (which Puck promptly ate into--I suspect now it was him and not Nell behind the infamous bread eating episode!) I followed the main drag through downtown (which was pretty, if congested, particularl with an RV) till I saw signs for the park. I knew roughly where the administration building was in relation to the visitor's center, and there was also a sign. So I pulled in, parked across several spaces, and went in. I found Lynn without much trouble, and she and a coworker came and saw the kitties. Then we drove to her and Colin's house, which is very very nice. I did manage to park in the driveway, although it's rather unlevel. Oh well, I don't have to use my refrigerator anyway!
We went for a drive around town, then picked up pizza. It is a pretty town, and lots of places have a view of the Straits or the mountains or both.
I slept well in the RV, then did laundry the next morning. It was a sunny, clear day, and halfway through the laundry I decided to go up to Hurricane Ridge. I left the laundry in the washer (temporarily!) and got in Lynn's car (which drives very nicely!) and headed uphill.
Hurricane Ridge, about 18 miles above Port Angeles, is amazing. You drive up and up and up, with some impressive cliff action on one side and rock walls on the other, and then at the top you round a corner and there is about 180 degrees of snow-capped mountains, all seemingly about the same height, across the horizon. It's just amazing and stunning, and again it was good that I could stop and gawk. I went into the Visitor's center (passing a deer in the parking lot that was transfixing everyone else--um, it's a deer) and stared at the mountains until I got cold (it was 45 degrees up there, and even though it was sunny I hadn't really dressed for that weather). Then back down the mountain, where I also got to see the fog bank that was covering the strait and Puget Sound, but letting views of higher portions of neighboring mountains show through. Very pretty.
When I got down the hill I decided to wander around the college. I couldn't find any visitor's parking (there's some sort of construction going on taking up most of the parking), so I parked along the road and walked. And quite frankly, I couldn't find much of anything. I mean, I found the library and the student union and such, but there apparently are no departments and everyone is just kind of mixed together. Kind of confusing, but again the campus has a great view as well. Then to McDonalds for lunch (bad idea to hit fast food in Port Angeles at lunch time, apparently--I could barely get into the parking lot because of the line for the drive-through and I couldn't go in the out and bah). Then back home, whereupon I dried my laundry, put it away, hung with the cats for a while, and took a nap.
When Lynn got home, we went for another drive and scoped out houses, and then back home for steak. I'm now on their internet, and catching up on everything. I plan on doing a coast drive, as well as taking the ferry to Victoria, although I'm not sure when. I may well update this, but I intend to head to Seattle on Monday, and I'll certainly update then, if their Internet works!
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Almost to the sea
June 17--Hoquiam, WA
After I had posted last night, Nell decided she wanted to play. So I got the feather-wand out for a while, and she attacked it until Puck woke up, found there was fun going on without him, and crashed the game. So I played with him a while, and tired them both out.
I slept well (interesting dreams of Mythbusters, after falling asleep to that show last night), and woke up around 5:30am. I wanted to get a fairly early start, in case there was a chance of seeing Mt. St. Helens. I fed the cats and loitered until around 7:20, to give them time to digest, then headed up the hill.
The weather had not improved. It was cloudy and drizzly, although occasionally the clouds would lighten enough to give me hope. I found I could have slept later, as nothing opened until 9am. So I stopped at a bridge overlook (which at the moment was mostly overlooking fog) to eat some tuna salad for breakfast (hey, protein's good to start the day). I didn't know if I wanted to drive the remaining 22 miles or so to the Johnston observatory, because I doubted that I could see anything. So I backtracked to the county visitor's center, which had very little of interest other than a collection of newspaper articles. Plus a memorial grove to those who were killed by the volcano, which was nice. There was also a good view of the Toutle river, running through the black volcanic mud of the valley--yes, it's still very visible.
At this point I thought, well, what the hell, maybe we'll be above the clouds, so I set off to the observatory. It was worth it just for the landscape, which ranged from nearly undisturbed forest to very few trees and a stream running through a valley choked with huge burnt-black tree trunks. I got to the observatory and---nothing. Fog and cloud. Which is a bummer, because most of the pictures I've seen show a spectacular view of the crater from there.
So I drove (carefully) back down the mountain, and headed back through Toledo (to take pictures that I neglected to take before), and then drove through the country for a while before construction forced me back on the Interstate. I got diesel and lunch in Chehalis, and then drove to Tenino, to Wolf Haven.
Janis and her family had been here before and raved about it, so I decided to stop. It's a sanctuary for former-pet wolves that can no longer be handled by their owners, as well as part of a breeding program for endangered red wolves and Mexican gray wolves. I got there about 45 minutes before the tour left, so I walked through the wolf prairie/graveyard, left a rock with our dogs' names at the wolf cairn, and then went back to the RV and read a bit and clipped the cat's nails (hey, we had time) and gave them hairball treats. I had let them out, since I figured we'd be here a while, and they rather like having the day broken like that, I think.
There were five of us on the tour, and I'm not sure but that I knew more about wolves than the tour guide did. But we did see several wolves, including one that had just caught a crow and was busy playing with/killing it (the remaining crows were all circling and raising hell above the trees, to no avail), as well as a red wolf (which I'd seen in South Carolina, which impressed the guide), a Mexican gray wolf (which impressed hell out of me--they are REALLY rare) and some coyotes. Also a bunny or two, but I don't think they count. It is indeed a very nice sanctuary, with pair-housing of wolves and nice big pens for them.
We then headed toward Elma, where I intended to stay. Except when we got there, the entire campground had been rented by a group. Since I was tired and the options were slim, this did not make me happy. However, I drove on to Hoquiam, and am now in a nice little RV camp next to the river. The lady at the desk was great--we got into a discussion about books, and I swapped two of my read ones for new books. I'm also going to fill up with water here at least halfway, since I'm going to be at Kalaloch the next few days and I don't know the water quality there (here it's chlorinated, which is good, but it's also tasty). I won't have power there either, so it should be more of a boondocking experience. However, I have to say, I'm happy here with my Internet and my electricity and the cable TV. I have found that I'm not huge on "roughing it", but Kalaloch is gorgeous enough that it's worth it.
After I had posted last night, Nell decided she wanted to play. So I got the feather-wand out for a while, and she attacked it until Puck woke up, found there was fun going on without him, and crashed the game. So I played with him a while, and tired them both out.
I slept well (interesting dreams of Mythbusters, after falling asleep to that show last night), and woke up around 5:30am. I wanted to get a fairly early start, in case there was a chance of seeing Mt. St. Helens. I fed the cats and loitered until around 7:20, to give them time to digest, then headed up the hill.
The weather had not improved. It was cloudy and drizzly, although occasionally the clouds would lighten enough to give me hope. I found I could have slept later, as nothing opened until 9am. So I stopped at a bridge overlook (which at the moment was mostly overlooking fog) to eat some tuna salad for breakfast (hey, protein's good to start the day). I didn't know if I wanted to drive the remaining 22 miles or so to the Johnston observatory, because I doubted that I could see anything. So I backtracked to the county visitor's center, which had very little of interest other than a collection of newspaper articles. Plus a memorial grove to those who were killed by the volcano, which was nice. There was also a good view of the Toutle river, running through the black volcanic mud of the valley--yes, it's still very visible.
At this point I thought, well, what the hell, maybe we'll be above the clouds, so I set off to the observatory. It was worth it just for the landscape, which ranged from nearly undisturbed forest to very few trees and a stream running through a valley choked with huge burnt-black tree trunks. I got to the observatory and---nothing. Fog and cloud. Which is a bummer, because most of the pictures I've seen show a spectacular view of the crater from there.
So I drove (carefully) back down the mountain, and headed back through Toledo (to take pictures that I neglected to take before), and then drove through the country for a while before construction forced me back on the Interstate. I got diesel and lunch in Chehalis, and then drove to Tenino, to Wolf Haven.
Janis and her family had been here before and raved about it, so I decided to stop. It's a sanctuary for former-pet wolves that can no longer be handled by their owners, as well as part of a breeding program for endangered red wolves and Mexican gray wolves. I got there about 45 minutes before the tour left, so I walked through the wolf prairie/graveyard, left a rock with our dogs' names at the wolf cairn, and then went back to the RV and read a bit and clipped the cat's nails (hey, we had time) and gave them hairball treats. I had let them out, since I figured we'd be here a while, and they rather like having the day broken like that, I think.
There were five of us on the tour, and I'm not sure but that I knew more about wolves than the tour guide did. But we did see several wolves, including one that had just caught a crow and was busy playing with/killing it (the remaining crows were all circling and raising hell above the trees, to no avail), as well as a red wolf (which I'd seen in South Carolina, which impressed the guide), a Mexican gray wolf (which impressed hell out of me--they are REALLY rare) and some coyotes. Also a bunny or two, but I don't think they count. It is indeed a very nice sanctuary, with pair-housing of wolves and nice big pens for them.
We then headed toward Elma, where I intended to stay. Except when we got there, the entire campground had been rented by a group. Since I was tired and the options were slim, this did not make me happy. However, I drove on to Hoquiam, and am now in a nice little RV camp next to the river. The lady at the desk was great--we got into a discussion about books, and I swapped two of my read ones for new books. I'm also going to fill up with water here at least halfway, since I'm going to be at Kalaloch the next few days and I don't know the water quality there (here it's chlorinated, which is good, but it's also tasty). I won't have power there either, so it should be more of a boondocking experience. However, I have to say, I'm happy here with my Internet and my electricity and the cable TV. I have found that I'm not huge on "roughing it", but Kalaloch is gorgeous enough that it's worth it.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Back in the USA
June 14--Grand Forks, BC
Woke up early this morning, but managed to get back to sleep and slept until 7 (probably because I fed the cats snacks at 3am). Puttered around a bit until 8am, where I went back for one last dip in the hot pool. Then I checked the tires (all well!) and we headed out.
The drive down to Nakusp was pretty well deserted; it's an advantage of being on a road that you have to take a ferry to enter: by the time I was on the road, the batch getting off the ferry at 9am had passed, and the 9:30am batch wouldn't catch up with me, so I rather took my time. Most of the roads today followed the same pattern: narrow valley (often filled with lake or stream), with the road partway up one side. Very pretty views of snow-capped mountains adorned with clearcuts, as well as lake views. With the occasional deer to increase adrenaline.
At Nakusp I stopped at a Kal-Tire place to have the lug nuts on the one tire checked; all was well, and we went on. I stopped at New Denver, and rather wish I had spent more time. It's a cute little town on a hill, with some artisan shops, a nice grocery (where I bought a chicken wrap and a tea for breakfast), and several war memorials. I also found my favorite motel: Dome Quixote, made up of little canvas huts. And then we went straight up a mountain.
I thought the roads before were deserted. Nope. Road 31A between New Denver and Kaslo was as deserted a road as I've ever driven on. No houses, once past the outskirts of town. No traffic passing me (and I did not drive fast). Damn little traffic in the opposite direction. All hill, mountain, stream (very fast-flowing), and sky. Absolutely gorgeous, and I was very glad that I could go as slow as I needed to. I didn't drive very far today, but it took a long time because I had to keep slowing down for turns and hills and such. But even the weather cooperated: no wind, high clouds to keep it cool.
I stopped at Ainsworth Hot springs for my finale. I mostly wanted to go here because they have a "cave" in their hot hot spring that you can go into. So I pulled in and parked next to an RV with a big dog in it. I let the cats loose in the rig, so they could pee or drink or whatever, and Nell immediately spotted that dog and began glaring at it. I don't think she likes dogs. Puck could have cared less, of course. He was more worried that I was leaving.
The hot spring was fairly reasonably priced, and I even got a nice big biodegradable plastic bag for my clothes. Their warm pool (96 degrees) was not huge, but had lots of nice nooks for people to relax in. There was also a spring-fed cold plunge (40 degrees) that I did go into--up to the ankles, and I also rinsed my hair in it before I left. The outside part of the hot hot pool (105 degrees) was small, but there was a lot more room inside, which was well worth the price of admission.
If you've been in a cave, you know they tell you not to touch the stalactites and stalagmites. Well, the inside of this cave (which had been at least roughed out by people, since the floor was smooth and it was about 5 feet wide throughout) was covered in most places by stalactites. The calcium carbonate and suchlike in the water (which was streaming down from the ceiling in drops--probably this was excavated in the actual spring--there was a stream leading in from a dark corner, which I didn't explore because it was dark) had caused huge calcium formations to grow, with ripples and tiny straws and all sorts of colors. It was well worth the steaming heat to touch and see all those things.
Even with the cave, I only spent an hour or so in the springs--I'm kind of hot-springed-out. So I went back to the RV and ate a tomato sandwich (as I'm headed back to the states tomorrow, I'm trying to eat all of my Canada vegetables/fruits) while pondering where to stop for the night. I decided on Grand Forks, and began driving south.
Nelson is a nice big town, right on Kootenay lake, complete with little college. Castlegar is much the same, although we didn't drive through the center of it the way you had to drive through Nelson. And then we drove up to a 5000-foot pass, which took a while (yay for passing lanes!), and then back down (which in a way is even more disconcerting). Another "No services for too damn long" road.
I'm in a little RV park, between the Kettle River and the road (which is rather loud). The lady in the office was nice and let me move from the rather unlevel spot I was in before, so now not only am I level, but I have a little gazebo to sit in (right next to the swimming ladder--don't go in now, though, unless you like drowning, as the river is deep and fast and cold with runoff). There's also a library, so I can exchange some of the books I've read for new ones, and nice washrooms (showers only a dollar). I was going to go take a shower, but we just had a thunderstorm pop up just east of here. I don't know if it will retrograde back to get us, but it's rumbling something fierce at the moment. I don't think we've gone through a thunderstorm in the rig--tropical storm yes, thunderstorm no. Puck isn't nervous at the moment, but I think I'll wait until it stops rumbling before I shower.
June 15--Vantage, WA
The little rumbly thunderstorm didn't come near us, thankfully.
Puck woke me up early (5:15), and attempting to get back to sleep didn't work. So I listened to the CBC and read a bit and ate some cheese, fed the cats at 6:30, and discovered something unprecedented. There's a cat food that Nell won't eat! I had given her one of the varieties of Friskies I'd bought (Turkey and cheese in gravy), and she had vomited it two mornings ago. I figured she just ate too fast or it was just a hairball or something equally temporary, but when I fed her the same type this morning, she didn't touch it. She sniffed it, ran up to me and meowed, then ran back and sniffed it again, and meowed again. After I recovered from the shock of Nell not eating food ravenously, I fed her a bunch of Greenies, to see if it was the food or her. It was the food; she scarfed those treats up with a frenzy I recognized. So, anybody want a can of Friskies? Luckily I only have one left, and that variety isn't usually included in packs in the US.
We were out by 8:00 or so. I drove slowly through Grand Forks, looking for a Tim Hortons, but didn't see one. So I got a Subway egg/ham/cheese sandwich and headed for the border.
Where I promptly pissed off the guy by not stopping at the stop sign. Sorry, dude, I wasn't sure if that was for the people not being helped or what. So I answered a few questions, he took my passport in to (probably) record my passage, came in the side door for a minute to make sure that I was indeed alone, and then I was allowed to go. I had to drive through two large columns, set about 10 feet apart, after going through customs; I thought about taking a picture of them, but I'd probably get arrested. I wonder if they were radiation detectors? I've never seen them before.
The drive to Republic was lovely and so full of deer I nearly lost my mind. The first part in particular was bad; the road went between the hills/woods and the river, and apparently the deer were headed to drink. I saw several and once had to do a panic stop (not fun in an RV--EVERYTHING slid forward, including some things that haven't moved all trip) to avoid the damn dumb thing. But it was damn pretty, at least what I could see of it when not looking frantically for deer.
I filled up in Republic and bought some Doritos and a soda, then headed south. More hills, more deer (I passed a mom and very young baby as I turned down the road), and more slow driving. Between the hills (where I have to go both up and down slowly) and the twisty road, I'm glad there was almost no traffic, so I could drive at my leisure. I wanted to go to Nespelem, where Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce is buried, which required turning off on a road that made the prior road look like the Seeney Strip (for those not familiar with the UP of Michigan, the Seeney Strip is a road that is not only flat but has no curves whatsoever for over 20 miles). Twisty up very slowly, even more twisty down (I had the RV in 2nd gear for a while, and still needed to use my brakes). The climate got dryer and dryer; it had been dry last night (I woke up at 2am with total cotton mouth) but this was REALLY dry. No wonder the Nez Perce were so unhappy here! I sure would be; I don't like deserts.
I found the Chief Joseph Memorial, which happens to be at a rest stop. Somehow, memorializing a great Native leader with toilets just strikes me as wrong. I wanted to find his grave, and did find the graveyard, but after driving up to the tiny parking lot (which had some potholes that when combined with the steep slope made me fear I was going to roll the RV), I found the fences were locked. Oh well, I tried.
So I turned south towards Grand Coulee. When I got there, the deserted road immediately turned into a suburban street, with trees and neat little houses; it was a bit disconcerting. As was the dam itself. I crossed a little bridge toward the visitor's center, with this big dam looming some distance away. I pulled into the parking lot; the people who designed this were thinking, because the parking spots were long enough to easily park my RV.
The dam is huge. It's about 200 feet shorter than Hoover dam, but Hoover dam is a triangle; this is a rectangle about five times as wide. Most of the middle of the dam was spillway, so there was a huge waterfall crashing down over the lip of the dam, making a loud roar. I went inside and watched a couple of videos (one was basically an ad for building dams; the other was geology about Glacial Lake Missoula, which was a lot more interesting).
During the Ice Age, an ice dam would form in Idaho, blocking the Clark Fork of the Columbia, and creating a huge lake (more water than Lake Erie). You can still see where the shoreline was on the mountains surrounding Missoula. When there was too much water, the dam would break, and all of the water would drain out, possibly in about 48 hours. Whereupon it scoured much of central Washington clean down to the bedrock. It cut valleys and coulees and left the remnants of waterfalls and just wrecked the place. And it did this dozens of times over a bit more than 2000 years. And yes, people were living here when that happened; that would be a hell of a thing to see.
After leaving the dam, I drove by Dry Falls, which is one of these waterfall remnants. It's not like a glacial hanging valley; it's more dramatic. When the Dry Falls weren't Dry they were about 3.5 miles long and over 400 feet high, and now there's a half-oval cliff with sheer walls and lakes in the bottom. It's the bizarrest thing.
I drove along the coulees (relatively flat, at least once we got to the bottom of the coulee), letting people pass me whenever possible. I decided I could make it to either Vantage or Ellensburg, and decided on Vantage. It's basically a campground by itself, with a small motel and a restaurant and some houses, right off the Interstate on the west bank of the Columbia. The campground is nearly deserted, except for some long-term people. I'm a bit leery, since there isn't anyone near me, but I'm close enough to someone tenting and to the motel that if I blow the air horn I happen to have by my bed, I should be heard.
I did laundry ($2.25 total to wash and dry one load--I can't do it that cheap at home!) and ate a burger at the restaurant (OK, but the mystery burger sauce was a bit too mysterious for me) with a salad (which was tiny, but any vegetable counts!). I walked to the one bathhouse I had seen, only to find it closed. Grumpy, I walked back and then realized that the laundry building has bathrooms, and took a nice hot shower.
The cats are fine; I played with Puck for a while. Nell is now sleeping on the driver's seat, which has Puck's carrier half over it; maybe she feels better that way. It's partly cloudy, with a bit of rain here and there, and the clouds are dramatic. I can see some of the river, with the bluffs on either side. It's also damn windy, and the rig is rocking a bit back and forth. Ought to be fun sleeping tonight!
June 16--Castle Rock, WA
Actually, sleeping was uneventful, even with the wind rocking the RV a bit, until Puck woke me up at 4:10. His excuse, I suspect, was that the sky in the east was getting light, and we were facing east so he could see it, thus time to feed cats! I finally put him in the kennel and slept until 7am--such decadence! I fed them a bit later and discovered that the restaurant I ate at last night wasn't open, so I had a cheese sandwich. We were on the road by 8:30, and spent the first 10 miles on the interstate going up a long, long hill. And then we went down a hill into Ellensburg. And then up and down a couple more hills to Yakima, where I stopped at WalMart for supplies (some food, plus a thermometer so I know just how damn cold it is outside--right now it's 57 out, and 72 in). Then I got lost in a rabbit warren of a parking lot trying to get diesel, of course only to find out later that I could have gotten it cheaper and easier a bit down the road. Oh well. We were back on the road, headed west on 12, by 11am.
Another loooong hill, this time up the Cascades toward Mt. Rainier (which I caught a glimpse of coming into Yakima, before the clouds set in), in the clouds and rain. The rain wasn't bad, never too hard, but the clouds pretty much killed any chance of a view. We chugged up to White Pass (it was 35 degrees at 4500 feet, but no snow falling), and then down. At least half of the traffic was RVs, so I felt right at home.
After we went through the pass, I looked for some place for lunch (I wanted a sandwich). And looked and looked and looked; some sit-down restaurants, but no sandwich place. I finally stopped in Toledo, at the IGA, and bought some jerky and a bagel with cream cheese (no sandwiches there either). By then it was close to 2pm, and there was little/no chance of seeing Mt. St. Helens through the murk. I listened to the weather radio and found there was a better chance of a view tomorrow (not much of a chance, just better). So we stopped at this RV park, at the foot of the road to the mountain, to wait until tomorrow. We have Internet, cable TV, heat if necessary, and lots of new food--we'll be fine.
I forgot to mention, on the way to Toledo we went through a little patch of old-growth forest. Lots of tall trees, and it was DARK. I hope to see more in the Olympics!
Someone is trying to back a trailer into the narrow spot next to me. I'm very glad I have a motorhome! And Puck was so fascinated he tried to stand up and forgot he was on the edge of the table, and fell off it! Ah, my cat.
Woke up early this morning, but managed to get back to sleep and slept until 7 (probably because I fed the cats snacks at 3am). Puttered around a bit until 8am, where I went back for one last dip in the hot pool. Then I checked the tires (all well!) and we headed out.
The drive down to Nakusp was pretty well deserted; it's an advantage of being on a road that you have to take a ferry to enter: by the time I was on the road, the batch getting off the ferry at 9am had passed, and the 9:30am batch wouldn't catch up with me, so I rather took my time. Most of the roads today followed the same pattern: narrow valley (often filled with lake or stream), with the road partway up one side. Very pretty views of snow-capped mountains adorned with clearcuts, as well as lake views. With the occasional deer to increase adrenaline.
At Nakusp I stopped at a Kal-Tire place to have the lug nuts on the one tire checked; all was well, and we went on. I stopped at New Denver, and rather wish I had spent more time. It's a cute little town on a hill, with some artisan shops, a nice grocery (where I bought a chicken wrap and a tea for breakfast), and several war memorials. I also found my favorite motel: Dome Quixote, made up of little canvas huts. And then we went straight up a mountain.
I thought the roads before were deserted. Nope. Road 31A between New Denver and Kaslo was as deserted a road as I've ever driven on. No houses, once past the outskirts of town. No traffic passing me (and I did not drive fast). Damn little traffic in the opposite direction. All hill, mountain, stream (very fast-flowing), and sky. Absolutely gorgeous, and I was very glad that I could go as slow as I needed to. I didn't drive very far today, but it took a long time because I had to keep slowing down for turns and hills and such. But even the weather cooperated: no wind, high clouds to keep it cool.
I stopped at Ainsworth Hot springs for my finale. I mostly wanted to go here because they have a "cave" in their hot hot spring that you can go into. So I pulled in and parked next to an RV with a big dog in it. I let the cats loose in the rig, so they could pee or drink or whatever, and Nell immediately spotted that dog and began glaring at it. I don't think she likes dogs. Puck could have cared less, of course. He was more worried that I was leaving.
The hot spring was fairly reasonably priced, and I even got a nice big biodegradable plastic bag for my clothes. Their warm pool (96 degrees) was not huge, but had lots of nice nooks for people to relax in. There was also a spring-fed cold plunge (40 degrees) that I did go into--up to the ankles, and I also rinsed my hair in it before I left. The outside part of the hot hot pool (105 degrees) was small, but there was a lot more room inside, which was well worth the price of admission.
If you've been in a cave, you know they tell you not to touch the stalactites and stalagmites. Well, the inside of this cave (which had been at least roughed out by people, since the floor was smooth and it was about 5 feet wide throughout) was covered in most places by stalactites. The calcium carbonate and suchlike in the water (which was streaming down from the ceiling in drops--probably this was excavated in the actual spring--there was a stream leading in from a dark corner, which I didn't explore because it was dark) had caused huge calcium formations to grow, with ripples and tiny straws and all sorts of colors. It was well worth the steaming heat to touch and see all those things.
Even with the cave, I only spent an hour or so in the springs--I'm kind of hot-springed-out. So I went back to the RV and ate a tomato sandwich (as I'm headed back to the states tomorrow, I'm trying to eat all of my Canada vegetables/fruits) while pondering where to stop for the night. I decided on Grand Forks, and began driving south.
Nelson is a nice big town, right on Kootenay lake, complete with little college. Castlegar is much the same, although we didn't drive through the center of it the way you had to drive through Nelson. And then we drove up to a 5000-foot pass, which took a while (yay for passing lanes!), and then back down (which in a way is even more disconcerting). Another "No services for too damn long" road.
I'm in a little RV park, between the Kettle River and the road (which is rather loud). The lady in the office was nice and let me move from the rather unlevel spot I was in before, so now not only am I level, but I have a little gazebo to sit in (right next to the swimming ladder--don't go in now, though, unless you like drowning, as the river is deep and fast and cold with runoff). There's also a library, so I can exchange some of the books I've read for new ones, and nice washrooms (showers only a dollar). I was going to go take a shower, but we just had a thunderstorm pop up just east of here. I don't know if it will retrograde back to get us, but it's rumbling something fierce at the moment. I don't think we've gone through a thunderstorm in the rig--tropical storm yes, thunderstorm no. Puck isn't nervous at the moment, but I think I'll wait until it stops rumbling before I shower.
June 15--Vantage, WA
The little rumbly thunderstorm didn't come near us, thankfully.
Puck woke me up early (5:15), and attempting to get back to sleep didn't work. So I listened to the CBC and read a bit and ate some cheese, fed the cats at 6:30, and discovered something unprecedented. There's a cat food that Nell won't eat! I had given her one of the varieties of Friskies I'd bought (Turkey and cheese in gravy), and she had vomited it two mornings ago. I figured she just ate too fast or it was just a hairball or something equally temporary, but when I fed her the same type this morning, she didn't touch it. She sniffed it, ran up to me and meowed, then ran back and sniffed it again, and meowed again. After I recovered from the shock of Nell not eating food ravenously, I fed her a bunch of Greenies, to see if it was the food or her. It was the food; she scarfed those treats up with a frenzy I recognized. So, anybody want a can of Friskies? Luckily I only have one left, and that variety isn't usually included in packs in the US.
We were out by 8:00 or so. I drove slowly through Grand Forks, looking for a Tim Hortons, but didn't see one. So I got a Subway egg/ham/cheese sandwich and headed for the border.
Where I promptly pissed off the guy by not stopping at the stop sign. Sorry, dude, I wasn't sure if that was for the people not being helped or what. So I answered a few questions, he took my passport in to (probably) record my passage, came in the side door for a minute to make sure that I was indeed alone, and then I was allowed to go. I had to drive through two large columns, set about 10 feet apart, after going through customs; I thought about taking a picture of them, but I'd probably get arrested. I wonder if they were radiation detectors? I've never seen them before.
The drive to Republic was lovely and so full of deer I nearly lost my mind. The first part in particular was bad; the road went between the hills/woods and the river, and apparently the deer were headed to drink. I saw several and once had to do a panic stop (not fun in an RV--EVERYTHING slid forward, including some things that haven't moved all trip) to avoid the damn dumb thing. But it was damn pretty, at least what I could see of it when not looking frantically for deer.
I filled up in Republic and bought some Doritos and a soda, then headed south. More hills, more deer (I passed a mom and very young baby as I turned down the road), and more slow driving. Between the hills (where I have to go both up and down slowly) and the twisty road, I'm glad there was almost no traffic, so I could drive at my leisure. I wanted to go to Nespelem, where Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce is buried, which required turning off on a road that made the prior road look like the Seeney Strip (for those not familiar with the UP of Michigan, the Seeney Strip is a road that is not only flat but has no curves whatsoever for over 20 miles). Twisty up very slowly, even more twisty down (I had the RV in 2nd gear for a while, and still needed to use my brakes). The climate got dryer and dryer; it had been dry last night (I woke up at 2am with total cotton mouth) but this was REALLY dry. No wonder the Nez Perce were so unhappy here! I sure would be; I don't like deserts.
I found the Chief Joseph Memorial, which happens to be at a rest stop. Somehow, memorializing a great Native leader with toilets just strikes me as wrong. I wanted to find his grave, and did find the graveyard, but after driving up to the tiny parking lot (which had some potholes that when combined with the steep slope made me fear I was going to roll the RV), I found the fences were locked. Oh well, I tried.
So I turned south towards Grand Coulee. When I got there, the deserted road immediately turned into a suburban street, with trees and neat little houses; it was a bit disconcerting. As was the dam itself. I crossed a little bridge toward the visitor's center, with this big dam looming some distance away. I pulled into the parking lot; the people who designed this were thinking, because the parking spots were long enough to easily park my RV.
The dam is huge. It's about 200 feet shorter than Hoover dam, but Hoover dam is a triangle; this is a rectangle about five times as wide. Most of the middle of the dam was spillway, so there was a huge waterfall crashing down over the lip of the dam, making a loud roar. I went inside and watched a couple of videos (one was basically an ad for building dams; the other was geology about Glacial Lake Missoula, which was a lot more interesting).
During the Ice Age, an ice dam would form in Idaho, blocking the Clark Fork of the Columbia, and creating a huge lake (more water than Lake Erie). You can still see where the shoreline was on the mountains surrounding Missoula. When there was too much water, the dam would break, and all of the water would drain out, possibly in about 48 hours. Whereupon it scoured much of central Washington clean down to the bedrock. It cut valleys and coulees and left the remnants of waterfalls and just wrecked the place. And it did this dozens of times over a bit more than 2000 years. And yes, people were living here when that happened; that would be a hell of a thing to see.
After leaving the dam, I drove by Dry Falls, which is one of these waterfall remnants. It's not like a glacial hanging valley; it's more dramatic. When the Dry Falls weren't Dry they were about 3.5 miles long and over 400 feet high, and now there's a half-oval cliff with sheer walls and lakes in the bottom. It's the bizarrest thing.
I drove along the coulees (relatively flat, at least once we got to the bottom of the coulee), letting people pass me whenever possible. I decided I could make it to either Vantage or Ellensburg, and decided on Vantage. It's basically a campground by itself, with a small motel and a restaurant and some houses, right off the Interstate on the west bank of the Columbia. The campground is nearly deserted, except for some long-term people. I'm a bit leery, since there isn't anyone near me, but I'm close enough to someone tenting and to the motel that if I blow the air horn I happen to have by my bed, I should be heard.
I did laundry ($2.25 total to wash and dry one load--I can't do it that cheap at home!) and ate a burger at the restaurant (OK, but the mystery burger sauce was a bit too mysterious for me) with a salad (which was tiny, but any vegetable counts!). I walked to the one bathhouse I had seen, only to find it closed. Grumpy, I walked back and then realized that the laundry building has bathrooms, and took a nice hot shower.
The cats are fine; I played with Puck for a while. Nell is now sleeping on the driver's seat, which has Puck's carrier half over it; maybe she feels better that way. It's partly cloudy, with a bit of rain here and there, and the clouds are dramatic. I can see some of the river, with the bluffs on either side. It's also damn windy, and the rig is rocking a bit back and forth. Ought to be fun sleeping tonight!
June 16--Castle Rock, WA
Actually, sleeping was uneventful, even with the wind rocking the RV a bit, until Puck woke me up at 4:10. His excuse, I suspect, was that the sky in the east was getting light, and we were facing east so he could see it, thus time to feed cats! I finally put him in the kennel and slept until 7am--such decadence! I fed them a bit later and discovered that the restaurant I ate at last night wasn't open, so I had a cheese sandwich. We were on the road by 8:30, and spent the first 10 miles on the interstate going up a long, long hill. And then we went down a hill into Ellensburg. And then up and down a couple more hills to Yakima, where I stopped at WalMart for supplies (some food, plus a thermometer so I know just how damn cold it is outside--right now it's 57 out, and 72 in). Then I got lost in a rabbit warren of a parking lot trying to get diesel, of course only to find out later that I could have gotten it cheaper and easier a bit down the road. Oh well. We were back on the road, headed west on 12, by 11am.
Another loooong hill, this time up the Cascades toward Mt. Rainier (which I caught a glimpse of coming into Yakima, before the clouds set in), in the clouds and rain. The rain wasn't bad, never too hard, but the clouds pretty much killed any chance of a view. We chugged up to White Pass (it was 35 degrees at 4500 feet, but no snow falling), and then down. At least half of the traffic was RVs, so I felt right at home.
After we went through the pass, I looked for some place for lunch (I wanted a sandwich). And looked and looked and looked; some sit-down restaurants, but no sandwich place. I finally stopped in Toledo, at the IGA, and bought some jerky and a bagel with cream cheese (no sandwiches there either). By then it was close to 2pm, and there was little/no chance of seeing Mt. St. Helens through the murk. I listened to the weather radio and found there was a better chance of a view tomorrow (not much of a chance, just better). So we stopped at this RV park, at the foot of the road to the mountain, to wait until tomorrow. We have Internet, cable TV, heat if necessary, and lots of new food--we'll be fine.
I forgot to mention, on the way to Toledo we went through a little patch of old-growth forest. Lots of tall trees, and it was DARK. I hope to see more in the Olympics!
Someone is trying to back a trailer into the narrow spot next to me. I'm very glad I have a motorhome! And Puck was so fascinated he tried to stand up and forgot he was on the edge of the table, and fell off it! Ah, my cat.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
I'm back!
June 10--Fairmont Hot Springs, BC
It was really great relaxing at home the past few weeks. I ate too much, which is good (sort of). Nell and Puck had mixed results with getting along with their new dog; Puck had no fear, but Nell wanted to kill her. Carly would charge Puck, who might or might not run, but it seemed all in good fun (Puck didn't seem worred after the first day or so). Nell, on the other hand, didn't apprecitate how Carly was treating Puck, and on a couple of occasions offered to kill her through the gate. Hissing and spitting and swatting and general mayhem. Carly wisely stayed out of reach.
I finally decided to leave yesterday, and after loading the RV and checking the tires and whatnot, we got on the road by 9:30. The weather was drab and got worse; the mountain view is lovely, but all I could see was low clouds and the occasional hill (usually with a wind turbine on top--it's nearly always windy here, and turbines work quite well).
People here in Canada really like their golf. I was driving through Crowsnest Pass, and found golfers out on the links. The temperature was 44 degrees and it was raining something fierce, not to mention the wind. But there they were, teeing off. There were also several bicyclists making their way to the top of the pass on the west side, again through the wind and rain and hills. I spotted one poor guy walking his bike up a particularly steep wet slope.
I turned north up the Kootenay valley in British Columbia and the skies began to clear. There were patches of sun here and there, and the rain slacked off. It was still in the 40's, so still cold, but better. The RV does well in rain, so other than slowing down on some of the more hairpin turns, we made good time.
I had decided to stop at Fairmont Hot Springs for a couple of days. It's up a hill in what is probably also a lovely valley (I hope it clears enough tomorrow that I can see it). I decided to splurge and got a Deluxe site with paved spot and cable and close to the path to the hot springs, but the first site they gave me was really long and not level; I could either level the rig (so the refrigerator would work) or have power/cable. I went back and they gave me another site, which is better. It backs up to a cliff (going up to more campsites above me), and I've mostly levelled the rig.
Both cats were glad to be free. Nell had not only vomited a bit of her breakfast (I don't know how, since I fed them almost three hours before we left), she apparently also urinated. So I'm now down one towel. Luckily it was an old towel, but I should stop someplace and get another cheap towel for her to rest on. Puck was fine, if loud.
I walked around to see the place. The pools are HUGE. There's a huge swimming pool, a big diving pool (with a high dive--lawsuits must be less common here) and a large soaking pool. I didn't go in, but I plan to today. I also walked around the rest of the complex. The lodge looks nice, the restaurants are expensive, and the spa prices are astronomical.
I came back and relaxed, and showered around 10:30, because it was still light and I lost track of what time it was. I got to sleep OK, but woke up at 2:30 to worry. Back to sleep by 3:15, and the cats let me sleep in until 6:30 or so. I just fed them, which made them happy; it's cold in the RV (only about 54 degrees), and I think they burn more calories than usual. I'll be sure to give them some treats. I bet I find Nell under the covers in my bed at some point; she's smart enough to know it's warmer there. Puck hasn't quite figured that out, but he does have longer fur.
I plan to spend the day in the hot springs. It's in the low 40's and raining outside, but the hot pool is 102 degrees, and the swimming pool is 88!
Later---
The heat works! Yes, it was cold enough this morning that I tried the heat. It took a while to kick in, but now it's working fine. I was worried about the hair/dust/etc being blown up out of the floor vents, but there wasn't much of a breeze there. They appear now to be intake vents, with most of the heat coming down from the ceiling, like the air conditioning (the same unit does both--maybe the propane heat uses the floor ducts). Which means when I stand up, my head is warm while my feet are cold. But still, it works.
I was lazy this morning, and didn't get over to the hot pool until around 10am. There are three pools (all big): a 10-foot deep diving pool with a low and high board, which is about 85 degrees (which feels damn warm when you've been standing in 45-degree rain), a very large pool (ranging from 18 inches to about 4.5 feet) that's about 87 degrees, and a hot pool (1 to four feet deep) that's about 102. There's also a very small very shallow pool that's about 107 that I stuck my hand in, which was enough.
I swam some laps, jumped off the boards a few times (I don't think I'm streamlined enough to do so now without some pain from my boobs being dragged to my waist and/or up around my ears). I also soaked a bit in the hot tub, enjoying sitting there in the cold rain. There was pretty much no view, unfortunately. I suspect it's spectacular when it's not foggy.
I got out around 11:30 to find some lunch. I had a craving for a big burger with fries, and I went to the lodge restaurant. Which was all healthy stuff, except for the pub, which didn't open until 2 (and offers a "hamburger" with all sorts of crap that has a knife stuck through it to keep it together--thanks, but no). I finally went to the snack bar at the pool, where I got exactly what I wanted: a big juicy burger (on a kaiser role!) with thick fries and a Pepsi! For $6.75! Absolutely wonderful--oh, me of little faith! I went back to the pool afterwards to soak for another hour or so (I'd bought an all-day pass), and then I went back to the RV to watch some TV and nap with the cats. It's strange to nap to Mythbusters and a cat sleeping on your chest; somewhat disconcerting to wake up and wonder what the hell is going on.
It stopped raining around 4--well, probably it stopped a bit before, but I was napping. I went out to walk around the place. It's big, and includes original bathhouses up the hill, which are small concrete rooms with rough bathtub-sized bits that some hot water still trickles into and out of. I stuck my hand it, and it's warm, but I prefer the big pool. It did have a great view of the valley, and I can almost see mountains!
I walked around the rest of the RV spots, which look really nice. One RV is apparently here until October! I hope they got a good deal. I've also been watching a lot of the RVs come in; lots of rentals. CruiseAmerica and CruiseCanada are very big here--heck, one just pulled in next to me. Plus some very very big RVs, complete with towed cars and everything including the kitchen sink. I like my little RV, thanks! It lets me park anywhere.
I got back from the walk (and found that I had a Missoula channel on the cable! I'm very glad I got this cable) just in time for it to begin raining again. So I fed the cats and ate and got caught up here and read about where I'm going to go and enjoyed the sound of the rain on the roof with the sun still shining.
I plan a bit later to go hop in the pool one more time. Lots of kids show up when school is out for the day, and I'd rather avoid the place being overrun. I figure I'll swim and shower and go to bed a bit earlier; it's moving day tomorrow!
Oh--and I don't need to buy more towels after all. I was digging under my couch in my linen cache for a swim towel, and found I had brought several extras. So Nell should be cushioned when we travel. Hopefully, this one will last a bit longer.
June 11--Canyon Hot Springs, BC
Note a pattern? There are several hot springs in this area, all fairly close to one another, and I'm going to visit most of them. I should be quite water-wrinkled by the end!
I woke up this morning and found that the rooftop heater only works if the temperature isn't that cold. There's a propane heater I can use, but I didn't want to crawl under the rig to turn the propane on in the cold and wet (yes, it's still raining). So we all bundled up on the couch until it warmed up a bit.
I dumped the tanks, loaded everything, put everyone in their place, and headed out. There were fewer clouds, and the rain soon stopped (for the moment). I got to see some of the mountains, but there were still puffy clouds obscuring some of the peaks. I had decided not to stay at Radium Hot Springs, because I heard that the pools were crowded and over-chlorinated, and it was the right decision. The campground I was going to stay at was in a deep valley, and there was just about no way I'd be able to get to the hot springs from there without driving, which would be a pain. So I kept going down the Columbia River valley. Yes, that Columbia.
I was still worried about my right rear tire, even after the tire guy in Panama City told me it was normal--it just wasn't. So I stopped in Golden, before I went over the mountains, to have them look at it. Not only was it not normal, it had a screw and a piece of wire in it that were causing the problems. The wonderful guys at Kal-Tire fixed it and checked out the rest of the tires (all look fine), all for free! Apparently it's a service they're reimbursed for as a public good, or something. It's also possible they saw how freaked-out I was and took pity on a woman travelling alone so far from home. Either way, thanks, guys! Elated, I stopped at a Subway for lunch and then headed up the mountain.
Canada has a Glacier National Park too, which might just have more glaciers than Montana's. Not that I could tell, because the rain came back. This is not unusual; the best joke I heard was "It only rains twice a week in Glacier: once for three days, and once for four." It was one of the rainy days. Two lane road (although with copious passing lanes), quite a lot of traffic, at least half of it RVs or trucks. The road was also steep and had construction, so it was rather a triple whammy. Still, we plugged along, although I did wish on several occasions that this rig had a manual transmission; I wanted to shift down when I wanted to, not when the transmission thought I should. Still, we made it without incident through the rain and several snow sheds; the railroad originally went through the pass, but it kept being taken out by avalanches with great loss of life, so they DUG A NINE-MILE TUNNEL THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF THE MOUNTAIN to bypass it. In the 1910's. They must've been desperate.
The mountains were amazing--at least, what I could see of them. They literally go straight up from the valley, and at times the valley doesn't seem wide enough for both the creek, the railroad, and the road. I can see why avalanches were/are a problem. I can't think of a place in Glacier that has such straight up on both sides; no real cliffs on this drive, so not as scenic as Going-to-the-sun, particularly for the driver.
I stopped at Rogers Pass--and yes, Montana has one of those too. There's a lodge and a visitor's center and some big parking lots, and that's it (there's a sign in Golden that says "Next Services 140 km", and they weren't kidding). I stopped to see the visitor's center (and cool my nerves a bit), and looked at some of the displays, which included a small stuffed cougar sprawled on an end table like a big house cat. By the way, the cats rode fine today; no excretions, although Puck wasn't happy with me and kept giving me the eye. The actual pass was a bit down the road; I stopped and took a picture of the weird monument there--it's like a square suspended inthe air from arches, with information on it. Weird. This may have been the last part of the Trans-Canada completed, in 1962, if I was reading it correctly.
Down the hill we went. The rain mostly stopped by this time, which was good, because going down the hill is scary enough without rain. It was no time at all until we reached the hot springs.
Canyon Hot Springs is located between Glacier National Park and Mt. Revelstoke National Park; I suspect we can see Mt. Revelstoke from the hot pool, as there's a huge glaciated peak at about the right spot. We're actually surrounded by glaciated/snowcapped peaks, pretty much in all directions. Very beautiful, if a bit noisy: both the TransCanada and the railroad are nearby (the railroad close enough to see), and neither is quiet. Oh well, noise never bothered me. It does seem to bother Puck; at least the trains going downhill do, with the screecy brakes. He's been hiding a lot as they come by, but I think he's better now. At least I know if there's ever a tornado (which is supposed to sound like a train) he'll go hide!
I stopped at the office, which required some driving up steep hills to reach. This place is spread out over 200 acres, and it's like a rabbit warren with campsites carved out of everywhere. The RV sites are in the open, while the non-serviced sites (RV's can stay there, but they don't get water or electricity, or the one cable channel (sports) I can get--no radio stations either, and no WiFi, alas). I've got a truly level site (yay, I stuck my leveller back on the window!) backing up to a creek, which is very nice. It's in the sun, which will warm up the rig nicely (hopefully not too warm, as it's supposed to be 25 tomorrow; somehow I doubt we'll reach, that, what with the wind coming off the snowfields and all).
The pools are nice, if not as big as Fairmont's. I spent much of the afternoon in the swimming pool, which is 87 degrees F and quite comfy. There are a few hummingbird feeders, and I spent much of the time watching up to eight (!) hummingbirds fighting over the food. I don't think I've seen eight hummingbirds in my life to date, and there was a damn swarm of them here. The hot pool is really freaking hot. It says 104 degrees, but I think it's lying. I can only be in it for a few minutes before I have to get out. I do think I'll appreciate it in the morning though; I'm sure it gets cold here, what with the altitude and the snow.
June 12
It was very cold this morning; 49 inside, 40 outside. Unfortunately, my electric heat isn't that robust and won't try to warm the place up that much, and the propane heat would require me to crawl under the rig in the cold, so we huddled under blankets until the sun warmed things up enough for the delicate heater to kick in. I did go and get in the hot hot tub at 9, when it opened; it actually felt really good for a while, although my feet were so cold that it burned.
The place was pretty full this morning, and had nearly cleared out by afternoon. I guess most people (like I am most of the time) are of the "stay here a day and move on" variety. The weather was great for moving: sunny, almost no clouds, and it got into the 70's. After swimming for a bit I walked around (between the reading and eating and napping, which rather goes without saying on rest days). There is very little here, other than the campground: a house or two (one neat-looking house by the railroad tracks is for sale, but I suspect it's only a summer house). The trains go right around the campground, and so there's either lots of noise from the engines trying to get up the hill, or lots of noise from the brakes slowing them down the hill. I did get a picture of a train coming through--action shot!
Late this afternoon a convoy of RVs arrived. There are at least 15-20, mostly huge and towing cars, all headed to Alaska. I talked to one, and in the conversation asked her if she was going to the hot springs. She said no, they're going to Laird Hot Springs. Well, that's about a week away in northern BC, and I still don't understand how that would prevent them from walking up the hill about five minutes and going to the springs here. The mind boggles.
The other high point yesterday was the rental RV next to me. When they decided to leave, they forgot to unplug their electric, so when they pulled out the plug (luckily) detached from the outlet and dragged behind them. They stopped almost immediately to retrieve it, which was good, but it's why I always try to walk all around the RV, checking everything, before I pull out. Safer that way. Of course, now that I've found jocularity in their mistake, I'll probably do something equally bone-headed myself. Ah well.
June 13--Halcyon Hot Springs, BC
I discovered how to have heat when it's cold: don't turn the heat off. Yeah, I know, it's not exactly going to win me "Genius of the year" or anything, but when I went to sleep last night I set the heat to 58 and turned it on (it was about 72 at the time inside). This morning around 3am the heat kicked in, and since heat rises the overcab bed was nice and toasty. It was cold on the floor, but that's OK.
I woke up early--5am. I dozed for a while, but finally got up and down into the cold main room. I actually got back in bed for a bit, but the cats let me know they wanted me up.
The convoy began leaving at 6:30am. They must not all drive together, but get together at the end of the day at the same campground or something. To me, that kind of defeats the purpose of travelling in a group: having someone around to help if you have a problem. Then again, with cell phones, they can just call and I'm sure someone would stop. Those were some big-ass rigs there.
I left around 8:30, and got to Revelstoke by 9. Wow--radio stations! Houses! Stores! I stopped at a gas station to fill up the diesel tank as well as my own; I'd been seeing commercials for Tim Horton's, so I got a very tasty sandwich with a tea. Then I headed "downtown" (I don't know if the town actually has a downtown, but I seemed to be on the main drag) to a grocery, to buy a few things (Pepsi, salsa, and Kleenex--I've had a "reverse cold" that began with a sore throat, which went away for the most part before the nose kinda kicked in; I'm still coughing up gunk at times, but it doesn't seem to be in my lungs). Then back to the road. I did not go to the Railway Museum, which was in an old railway station--next trip.
The road south of Revelstoke is virtually void of civilization. Trees, trees, and more trees. A couple of parks, maybe a few homes, a logging road or two (I saw my first confirmed clear cut), and that's it. I had read that the ferry across the columbia/Arrow Lake left on the hour, and I was going to be quite early, so I took my time. And I got passed by people in a real damn hurry. As it turns out, they were in a hurry for a reason: there's also a ferry that runs on the half hour in the summer and on weekends, and I was the last vehicle on it. The RV's (a different manufacturer's version of my rig, as well as a fifth wheel and me) were taking up the two middle lanes (we were in the middle of them), with cars on either side. It was a nice little trip; there was no wind so no waves. The water in fact looked like it had lots of debris in it at first, branches and such. We got to the other side and it was quite a haul up the hill to the road.
Halcyon Hot Springs is only about 8 miles south of the ferry, and it was about 11:30 when I got to the office (i.e. too damn early). The front desk people were nice and gave me a map of the campground with the ones which were to leave marked, so I could pick my spot. It's a very small campground with quite small spots (no big-ass rigs here); I've got an average-sized spot and I fill it completely with my 24' RV. There are some bigger, but not many. No real trees, although I did get one with a bush that shaded part of the rig in the later afternoon. I walked back down after parking and registered, and also gave the front desk a list of who had left and who was still here, which they appreciated.
I sat for a while to air out the vehicle, then closed the larger windows and went to lunch. I had an interesting hamburger (there were marinated onions that were indeed interesting), plus fries (the Coke was flat and I returned it--yay for grocery Pepsi!). The restaurant had a great view of the lake and the hot pools, which are carved out of a rather sheer cliff.
After lunch I went down for a quick dip. The largest pool was about 87 degrees, and quite comfortable to swim in. I suspect it had a diving board at one time, since it had a deep end that went rather abruptly to 9 feet, but no board anymore. There are three other, much smaller pools on the upper level: one warm (100 degrees, which was nice as it had a bit of a current around a center island and you can just float around and around), one 105 degrees (I stuck my feet in, but no more) and a very small cold plunge that's 55 degrees (yikes!). I'm planning on going back, although now it's gone from sunny to sprinkling off and on. Well, it's nicer to swim in a hot tub when it's not 85 degrees out. Besides, I don't think I get a channel that will show the Tony Awards. Oh well. If the Internet begins to work, I can at least get the results tonight.
It was really great relaxing at home the past few weeks. I ate too much, which is good (sort of). Nell and Puck had mixed results with getting along with their new dog; Puck had no fear, but Nell wanted to kill her. Carly would charge Puck, who might or might not run, but it seemed all in good fun (Puck didn't seem worred after the first day or so). Nell, on the other hand, didn't apprecitate how Carly was treating Puck, and on a couple of occasions offered to kill her through the gate. Hissing and spitting and swatting and general mayhem. Carly wisely stayed out of reach.
I finally decided to leave yesterday, and after loading the RV and checking the tires and whatnot, we got on the road by 9:30. The weather was drab and got worse; the mountain view is lovely, but all I could see was low clouds and the occasional hill (usually with a wind turbine on top--it's nearly always windy here, and turbines work quite well).
People here in Canada really like their golf. I was driving through Crowsnest Pass, and found golfers out on the links. The temperature was 44 degrees and it was raining something fierce, not to mention the wind. But there they were, teeing off. There were also several bicyclists making their way to the top of the pass on the west side, again through the wind and rain and hills. I spotted one poor guy walking his bike up a particularly steep wet slope.
I turned north up the Kootenay valley in British Columbia and the skies began to clear. There were patches of sun here and there, and the rain slacked off. It was still in the 40's, so still cold, but better. The RV does well in rain, so other than slowing down on some of the more hairpin turns, we made good time.
I had decided to stop at Fairmont Hot Springs for a couple of days. It's up a hill in what is probably also a lovely valley (I hope it clears enough tomorrow that I can see it). I decided to splurge and got a Deluxe site with paved spot and cable and close to the path to the hot springs, but the first site they gave me was really long and not level; I could either level the rig (so the refrigerator would work) or have power/cable. I went back and they gave me another site, which is better. It backs up to a cliff (going up to more campsites above me), and I've mostly levelled the rig.
Both cats were glad to be free. Nell had not only vomited a bit of her breakfast (I don't know how, since I fed them almost three hours before we left), she apparently also urinated. So I'm now down one towel. Luckily it was an old towel, but I should stop someplace and get another cheap towel for her to rest on. Puck was fine, if loud.
I walked around to see the place. The pools are HUGE. There's a huge swimming pool, a big diving pool (with a high dive--lawsuits must be less common here) and a large soaking pool. I didn't go in, but I plan to today. I also walked around the rest of the complex. The lodge looks nice, the restaurants are expensive, and the spa prices are astronomical.
I came back and relaxed, and showered around 10:30, because it was still light and I lost track of what time it was. I got to sleep OK, but woke up at 2:30 to worry. Back to sleep by 3:15, and the cats let me sleep in until 6:30 or so. I just fed them, which made them happy; it's cold in the RV (only about 54 degrees), and I think they burn more calories than usual. I'll be sure to give them some treats. I bet I find Nell under the covers in my bed at some point; she's smart enough to know it's warmer there. Puck hasn't quite figured that out, but he does have longer fur.
I plan to spend the day in the hot springs. It's in the low 40's and raining outside, but the hot pool is 102 degrees, and the swimming pool is 88!
Later---
The heat works! Yes, it was cold enough this morning that I tried the heat. It took a while to kick in, but now it's working fine. I was worried about the hair/dust/etc being blown up out of the floor vents, but there wasn't much of a breeze there. They appear now to be intake vents, with most of the heat coming down from the ceiling, like the air conditioning (the same unit does both--maybe the propane heat uses the floor ducts). Which means when I stand up, my head is warm while my feet are cold. But still, it works.
I was lazy this morning, and didn't get over to the hot pool until around 10am. There are three pools (all big): a 10-foot deep diving pool with a low and high board, which is about 85 degrees (which feels damn warm when you've been standing in 45-degree rain), a very large pool (ranging from 18 inches to about 4.5 feet) that's about 87 degrees, and a hot pool (1 to four feet deep) that's about 102. There's also a very small very shallow pool that's about 107 that I stuck my hand in, which was enough.
I swam some laps, jumped off the boards a few times (I don't think I'm streamlined enough to do so now without some pain from my boobs being dragged to my waist and/or up around my ears). I also soaked a bit in the hot tub, enjoying sitting there in the cold rain. There was pretty much no view, unfortunately. I suspect it's spectacular when it's not foggy.
I got out around 11:30 to find some lunch. I had a craving for a big burger with fries, and I went to the lodge restaurant. Which was all healthy stuff, except for the pub, which didn't open until 2 (and offers a "hamburger" with all sorts of crap that has a knife stuck through it to keep it together--thanks, but no). I finally went to the snack bar at the pool, where I got exactly what I wanted: a big juicy burger (on a kaiser role!) with thick fries and a Pepsi! For $6.75! Absolutely wonderful--oh, me of little faith! I went back to the pool afterwards to soak for another hour or so (I'd bought an all-day pass), and then I went back to the RV to watch some TV and nap with the cats. It's strange to nap to Mythbusters and a cat sleeping on your chest; somewhat disconcerting to wake up and wonder what the hell is going on.
It stopped raining around 4--well, probably it stopped a bit before, but I was napping. I went out to walk around the place. It's big, and includes original bathhouses up the hill, which are small concrete rooms with rough bathtub-sized bits that some hot water still trickles into and out of. I stuck my hand it, and it's warm, but I prefer the big pool. It did have a great view of the valley, and I can almost see mountains!
I walked around the rest of the RV spots, which look really nice. One RV is apparently here until October! I hope they got a good deal. I've also been watching a lot of the RVs come in; lots of rentals. CruiseAmerica and CruiseCanada are very big here--heck, one just pulled in next to me. Plus some very very big RVs, complete with towed cars and everything including the kitchen sink. I like my little RV, thanks! It lets me park anywhere.
I got back from the walk (and found that I had a Missoula channel on the cable! I'm very glad I got this cable) just in time for it to begin raining again. So I fed the cats and ate and got caught up here and read about where I'm going to go and enjoyed the sound of the rain on the roof with the sun still shining.
I plan a bit later to go hop in the pool one more time. Lots of kids show up when school is out for the day, and I'd rather avoid the place being overrun. I figure I'll swim and shower and go to bed a bit earlier; it's moving day tomorrow!
Oh--and I don't need to buy more towels after all. I was digging under my couch in my linen cache for a swim towel, and found I had brought several extras. So Nell should be cushioned when we travel. Hopefully, this one will last a bit longer.
June 11--Canyon Hot Springs, BC
Note a pattern? There are several hot springs in this area, all fairly close to one another, and I'm going to visit most of them. I should be quite water-wrinkled by the end!
I woke up this morning and found that the rooftop heater only works if the temperature isn't that cold. There's a propane heater I can use, but I didn't want to crawl under the rig to turn the propane on in the cold and wet (yes, it's still raining). So we all bundled up on the couch until it warmed up a bit.
I dumped the tanks, loaded everything, put everyone in their place, and headed out. There were fewer clouds, and the rain soon stopped (for the moment). I got to see some of the mountains, but there were still puffy clouds obscuring some of the peaks. I had decided not to stay at Radium Hot Springs, because I heard that the pools were crowded and over-chlorinated, and it was the right decision. The campground I was going to stay at was in a deep valley, and there was just about no way I'd be able to get to the hot springs from there without driving, which would be a pain. So I kept going down the Columbia River valley. Yes, that Columbia.
I was still worried about my right rear tire, even after the tire guy in Panama City told me it was normal--it just wasn't. So I stopped in Golden, before I went over the mountains, to have them look at it. Not only was it not normal, it had a screw and a piece of wire in it that were causing the problems. The wonderful guys at Kal-Tire fixed it and checked out the rest of the tires (all look fine), all for free! Apparently it's a service they're reimbursed for as a public good, or something. It's also possible they saw how freaked-out I was and took pity on a woman travelling alone so far from home. Either way, thanks, guys! Elated, I stopped at a Subway for lunch and then headed up the mountain.
Canada has a Glacier National Park too, which might just have more glaciers than Montana's. Not that I could tell, because the rain came back. This is not unusual; the best joke I heard was "It only rains twice a week in Glacier: once for three days, and once for four." It was one of the rainy days. Two lane road (although with copious passing lanes), quite a lot of traffic, at least half of it RVs or trucks. The road was also steep and had construction, so it was rather a triple whammy. Still, we plugged along, although I did wish on several occasions that this rig had a manual transmission; I wanted to shift down when I wanted to, not when the transmission thought I should. Still, we made it without incident through the rain and several snow sheds; the railroad originally went through the pass, but it kept being taken out by avalanches with great loss of life, so they DUG A NINE-MILE TUNNEL THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF THE MOUNTAIN to bypass it. In the 1910's. They must've been desperate.
The mountains were amazing--at least, what I could see of them. They literally go straight up from the valley, and at times the valley doesn't seem wide enough for both the creek, the railroad, and the road. I can see why avalanches were/are a problem. I can't think of a place in Glacier that has such straight up on both sides; no real cliffs on this drive, so not as scenic as Going-to-the-sun, particularly for the driver.
I stopped at Rogers Pass--and yes, Montana has one of those too. There's a lodge and a visitor's center and some big parking lots, and that's it (there's a sign in Golden that says "Next Services 140 km", and they weren't kidding). I stopped to see the visitor's center (and cool my nerves a bit), and looked at some of the displays, which included a small stuffed cougar sprawled on an end table like a big house cat. By the way, the cats rode fine today; no excretions, although Puck wasn't happy with me and kept giving me the eye. The actual pass was a bit down the road; I stopped and took a picture of the weird monument there--it's like a square suspended inthe air from arches, with information on it. Weird. This may have been the last part of the Trans-Canada completed, in 1962, if I was reading it correctly.
Down the hill we went. The rain mostly stopped by this time, which was good, because going down the hill is scary enough without rain. It was no time at all until we reached the hot springs.
Canyon Hot Springs is located between Glacier National Park and Mt. Revelstoke National Park; I suspect we can see Mt. Revelstoke from the hot pool, as there's a huge glaciated peak at about the right spot. We're actually surrounded by glaciated/snowcapped peaks, pretty much in all directions. Very beautiful, if a bit noisy: both the TransCanada and the railroad are nearby (the railroad close enough to see), and neither is quiet. Oh well, noise never bothered me. It does seem to bother Puck; at least the trains going downhill do, with the screecy brakes. He's been hiding a lot as they come by, but I think he's better now. At least I know if there's ever a tornado (which is supposed to sound like a train) he'll go hide!
I stopped at the office, which required some driving up steep hills to reach. This place is spread out over 200 acres, and it's like a rabbit warren with campsites carved out of everywhere. The RV sites are in the open, while the non-serviced sites (RV's can stay there, but they don't get water or electricity, or the one cable channel (sports) I can get--no radio stations either, and no WiFi, alas). I've got a truly level site (yay, I stuck my leveller back on the window!) backing up to a creek, which is very nice. It's in the sun, which will warm up the rig nicely (hopefully not too warm, as it's supposed to be 25 tomorrow; somehow I doubt we'll reach, that, what with the wind coming off the snowfields and all).
The pools are nice, if not as big as Fairmont's. I spent much of the afternoon in the swimming pool, which is 87 degrees F and quite comfy. There are a few hummingbird feeders, and I spent much of the time watching up to eight (!) hummingbirds fighting over the food. I don't think I've seen eight hummingbirds in my life to date, and there was a damn swarm of them here. The hot pool is really freaking hot. It says 104 degrees, but I think it's lying. I can only be in it for a few minutes before I have to get out. I do think I'll appreciate it in the morning though; I'm sure it gets cold here, what with the altitude and the snow.
June 12
It was very cold this morning; 49 inside, 40 outside. Unfortunately, my electric heat isn't that robust and won't try to warm the place up that much, and the propane heat would require me to crawl under the rig in the cold, so we huddled under blankets until the sun warmed things up enough for the delicate heater to kick in. I did go and get in the hot hot tub at 9, when it opened; it actually felt really good for a while, although my feet were so cold that it burned.
The place was pretty full this morning, and had nearly cleared out by afternoon. I guess most people (like I am most of the time) are of the "stay here a day and move on" variety. The weather was great for moving: sunny, almost no clouds, and it got into the 70's. After swimming for a bit I walked around (between the reading and eating and napping, which rather goes without saying on rest days). There is very little here, other than the campground: a house or two (one neat-looking house by the railroad tracks is for sale, but I suspect it's only a summer house). The trains go right around the campground, and so there's either lots of noise from the engines trying to get up the hill, or lots of noise from the brakes slowing them down the hill. I did get a picture of a train coming through--action shot!
Late this afternoon a convoy of RVs arrived. There are at least 15-20, mostly huge and towing cars, all headed to Alaska. I talked to one, and in the conversation asked her if she was going to the hot springs. She said no, they're going to Laird Hot Springs. Well, that's about a week away in northern BC, and I still don't understand how that would prevent them from walking up the hill about five minutes and going to the springs here. The mind boggles.
The other high point yesterday was the rental RV next to me. When they decided to leave, they forgot to unplug their electric, so when they pulled out the plug (luckily) detached from the outlet and dragged behind them. They stopped almost immediately to retrieve it, which was good, but it's why I always try to walk all around the RV, checking everything, before I pull out. Safer that way. Of course, now that I've found jocularity in their mistake, I'll probably do something equally bone-headed myself. Ah well.
June 13--Halcyon Hot Springs, BC
I discovered how to have heat when it's cold: don't turn the heat off. Yeah, I know, it's not exactly going to win me "Genius of the year" or anything, but when I went to sleep last night I set the heat to 58 and turned it on (it was about 72 at the time inside). This morning around 3am the heat kicked in, and since heat rises the overcab bed was nice and toasty. It was cold on the floor, but that's OK.
I woke up early--5am. I dozed for a while, but finally got up and down into the cold main room. I actually got back in bed for a bit, but the cats let me know they wanted me up.
The convoy began leaving at 6:30am. They must not all drive together, but get together at the end of the day at the same campground or something. To me, that kind of defeats the purpose of travelling in a group: having someone around to help if you have a problem. Then again, with cell phones, they can just call and I'm sure someone would stop. Those were some big-ass rigs there.
I left around 8:30, and got to Revelstoke by 9. Wow--radio stations! Houses! Stores! I stopped at a gas station to fill up the diesel tank as well as my own; I'd been seeing commercials for Tim Horton's, so I got a very tasty sandwich with a tea. Then I headed "downtown" (I don't know if the town actually has a downtown, but I seemed to be on the main drag) to a grocery, to buy a few things (Pepsi, salsa, and Kleenex--I've had a "reverse cold" that began with a sore throat, which went away for the most part before the nose kinda kicked in; I'm still coughing up gunk at times, but it doesn't seem to be in my lungs). Then back to the road. I did not go to the Railway Museum, which was in an old railway station--next trip.
The road south of Revelstoke is virtually void of civilization. Trees, trees, and more trees. A couple of parks, maybe a few homes, a logging road or two (I saw my first confirmed clear cut), and that's it. I had read that the ferry across the columbia/Arrow Lake left on the hour, and I was going to be quite early, so I took my time. And I got passed by people in a real damn hurry. As it turns out, they were in a hurry for a reason: there's also a ferry that runs on the half hour in the summer and on weekends, and I was the last vehicle on it. The RV's (a different manufacturer's version of my rig, as well as a fifth wheel and me) were taking up the two middle lanes (we were in the middle of them), with cars on either side. It was a nice little trip; there was no wind so no waves. The water in fact looked like it had lots of debris in it at first, branches and such. We got to the other side and it was quite a haul up the hill to the road.
Halcyon Hot Springs is only about 8 miles south of the ferry, and it was about 11:30 when I got to the office (i.e. too damn early). The front desk people were nice and gave me a map of the campground with the ones which were to leave marked, so I could pick my spot. It's a very small campground with quite small spots (no big-ass rigs here); I've got an average-sized spot and I fill it completely with my 24' RV. There are some bigger, but not many. No real trees, although I did get one with a bush that shaded part of the rig in the later afternoon. I walked back down after parking and registered, and also gave the front desk a list of who had left and who was still here, which they appreciated.
I sat for a while to air out the vehicle, then closed the larger windows and went to lunch. I had an interesting hamburger (there were marinated onions that were indeed interesting), plus fries (the Coke was flat and I returned it--yay for grocery Pepsi!). The restaurant had a great view of the lake and the hot pools, which are carved out of a rather sheer cliff.
After lunch I went down for a quick dip. The largest pool was about 87 degrees, and quite comfortable to swim in. I suspect it had a diving board at one time, since it had a deep end that went rather abruptly to 9 feet, but no board anymore. There are three other, much smaller pools on the upper level: one warm (100 degrees, which was nice as it had a bit of a current around a center island and you can just float around and around), one 105 degrees (I stuck my feet in, but no more) and a very small cold plunge that's 55 degrees (yikes!). I'm planning on going back, although now it's gone from sunny to sprinkling off and on. Well, it's nicer to swim in a hot tub when it's not 85 degrees out. Besides, I don't think I get a channel that will show the Tony Awards. Oh well. If the Internet begins to work, I can at least get the results tonight.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
